When Ambre de Jadis was introduced, the world was emerging from the trauma of World War I and stepping into the dynamic, glamorous decade known as the Roaring Twenties. This was the Art Deco era, marked by rapid modernization, bold aesthetics, and a sense of liberation in fashion and the arts. Women were shedding Edwardian constraints in favor of looser silhouettes, bobbed hair, and a growing sense of social and sexual independence. In perfumery, this translated into a move away from simple floral waters toward bolder, more exotic, and sensual compositions. Amber scents were especially popular during this time, as they embodied warmth, mystery, and luxury—qualities that resonated with the modern woman’s growing appetite for self-expression and sophistication.
Ambre de Jadis would have fit beautifully into this context. Described as a sweet amber oriental fragrance, it joined a long lineage of amber perfumes that had been beloved since the 19th century. Nearly every major perfumery had its own version of an amber scent—typically constructed around ambergris, labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, and spices. What distinguished one from another was how each perfumer tweaked the formula—adding, subtracting, or modernizing ingredients to create a signature variation. Ciro, known for its stylish and cosmopolitan image, likely sought to create a version of amber that felt rich and timeless, yet in step with the modern mood.
In perfumery, the word “amber”—ambre—does not refer to fossilized resin, but rather to ambergris, a rare substance excreted by the sperm whale and prized for its ability to transform over time into a complex, sensual aromatic material. When aged and oxidized at sea, ambergris develops a scent that is marine, slightly animalic, subtly sweet, and hauntingly beautiful. Sourced primarily from the shores of the Indian Ocean and the Middle East, true ambergris was astonishingly expensive—often more valuable than gold by weight. In the 19th century, amber-based perfumes relied on tinctures, natural resins like labdanum and benzoin, and infusions to build their warm, lingering character.
However, by the early 20th century, perfumers had begun incorporating synthetic aroma chemicals into these classic formulas. Molecules such as ambreine (found in ambergris) and vanillin (a synthetic derived from clove oil or wood pulp) began to appear in amber compositions. These synthetics not only substituted for rare and costly natural materials, but also allowed perfumers to enhance or refine the scent. They provided clarity, stability, and consistent diffusion, reinforcing the perfume's warm sweetness and fixative properties without sacrificing complexity.
To a woman of the 1920s, Ambre de Jadis would have symbolized timeless sensuality and cultured elegance. It offered a scent that was rooted in historical luxury yet rendered with modern precision—a fragrance that spoke to her desire to embrace the future without losing touch with the beauty of the past. The name promised nostalgia and warmth, while the scent itself—undoubtedly a smooth blend of resins, balsams, and spices—wrapped the skin in an aura of golden intimacy.
While Ambre de Jadis was part of a well-established fragrance genre, it was not merely derivative. Rather, it joined the ranks of amber perfumes that were evolving with the times. It reflected the 1920s’ fascination with orientalism, mystery, and sensual depth while utilizing the latest innovations in perfumery. In this way, it stood as both a continuation and a refinement of tradition—a perfume that truly lived up to its name: a memory of the past, rendered beautifully for the present.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Ambre de Jadis by Ciro is classified as a sweet amber oriental fragrance for women.- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, Sicilian neroli, French carnation, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cinnamon
- Middle notes: Grasse rose, Peruvian heliotrope, Riviera jasmine, Florentine orris concrete, Tuscan violet, methyl ionone, Omani frankincense, Sudanese myrrh, Somali olibanum, Ethiopian opoponax
- Base notes: ambergris, ambreine, Abyssinian civet, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, Indian musk ambrette, Maltese labdanum, Siam benzoin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Tyrolean oakmoss, Malaysian patchouli, Virginian tobacco, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin
Scent Profile:
Opening a bottle of Ambre de Jadis by Ciro is like unsealing an antique lacquered chest filled with silk, spice, and secrets. The fragrance reveals itself slowly and sumptuously, layer by layer, beginning with a dazzling interplay of citrus and spice. The top note of Calabrian bergamot emerges first—zesty and luminous, with a balance of tartness and gentle floral sweetness that only this variety, grown along the Ionian coast of southern Italy, can achieve. Its brightness is softened and deepened by the floral glow of Tunisian orange blossom, whose sunny, slightly animalic sweetness is warmer and richer than the more ethereal orange blossoms of other regions. Complementing it is Sicilian neroli, lighter, greener, and more sparkling, evoking citrus groves in bloom under the Mediterranean sun.
Then come the spice notes, pulling the fragrance into sultry territory. French carnation adds a clove-like floral spiciness, rich and slightly peppery, enhanced by the heat of Zanzibar clove, whose essential oil—harvested from dried flower buds grown on the islands off the East African coast—is renowned for its full-bodied, eugenol-rich warmth. This clove is pungent, almost medicinal at first, then smooths into velvet. Ceylon cinnamon follows—a golden, honeyed spice that is both sweet and dry, cultivated in the humid plantations of Sri Lanka, and prized for its complexity. Together, these top notes set the stage with a lush, baroque opulence that is immediately transporting.
As the heart unfolds, florals and resins converge in a radiant and sensual harmony. Grasse rose, with its honeyed, full-bodied richness, is at once romantic and grounding. This rose is thick with petals, exuding warmth and a faintly peppered softness that only the temperate fields of Grasse can produce. Paired with it is Riviera jasmine, whose creamy-white blossoms yield an indolic intensity—heady, narcotic, and faintly animalic. Peruvian heliotrope contributes a gentle sweetness, like almond-laced powdered sugar, soft and nostalgic, while Tuscan violet adds a cool, dewy petaliness—its aroma enhanced and expanded by methyl ionone, a synthetic molecule developed in the early 20th century. Methyl ionone is violet-like, but with a crystalline clarity and persistence that natural violet lacks, giving the heart a velvety, airy roundness.
The heart is also enriched by sacred resins and precious extracts. Florentine orris concrete, made from the aged roots of the iris flower, imparts a rich, powdery-woody depth—like suede warmed by skin. Then come the incense notes: Omani frankincense, resinous and lemony; Sudanese myrrh, dark and bitter with a medicinal shadow; Somali olibanum, citrusy and piney; and Ethiopian opoponax, also known as sweet myrrh, which glows with a balsamic, honeyed warmth. These sacred, smoky elements infuse the floral heart with a burnished, ritualistic beauty—elevated and mysterious, like scent lingering in an ancient temple.
In the base, Ambre de Jadis descends into the deep amber accord for which it is named. Ambergris—a rare and coveted substance aged and shaped by the ocean—lends a soft, almost salty-animalic glow that diffuses and magnifies the other elements. This is paired with ambreine, a synthetic molecule isolated from ambergris, used here to amplify and extend the accord’s warmth. Together, they create a sense of sun-warmed skin and smoldering depth. Abyssinian civet and Tibetan musk, likely tinctured in the original formula, lend a soft, animal warmth—sensual, intimate, and slightly feral—tempered by musk ketone, a powdery synthetic that adds persistence and creamy diffusion. Indian musk ambrette, a botanical musk from hibiscus seeds, adds a sweet, slightly fruity nuance with a natural warmth that complements the deeper animalics.
Maltese labdanum, sun-thickened on the rocky shores of the Mediterranean, brings a leathery, ambered richness that is both smoky and resinous. Siam benzoin, sweet and vanilla-like, blends seamlessly with Mexican vanilla and vanillin, the latter a synthetic that intensifies the warmth of natural vanilla, bringing clarity and projection to the drydown. Tyrolean oakmoss, with its earthy, damp-forest complexity, adds a grounding green shadow, while Malaysian patchouli, dark and woody with a hint of spice, weaves into the heartwood richness of Virginian tobacco—a dry, smoky note that speaks to vintage elegance. Finally, Mysore sandalwood, creamy, sacred, and rare, adds depth and calm, its milky softness rounding every edge. Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, brings a nutty, toasted-almond sweetness, heightened by additional coumarin, which contributes an airy hay-like lift to the entire composition.
Wearing Ambre de Jadis is like entering a dream of a past both imagined and real—a golden past warmed by resins, softened by petals, and stirred by the quiet roar of spice and musk. It is not simply an amber fragrance, but a portrait in scent of lost splendor, a masterwork that embraces both the natural world and the innovations of modern perfumery to create something wholly timeless.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1923, Ambre de Jadis by Ciro was a luxurious amber oriental fragrance that reflected the romantic nostalgia of its name—“Amber of Yesteryear.” While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, historical records confirm that it was still being sold as late as 1938, suggesting that it remained part of the Ciro line for at least a decade. During its time on the market, Ambre de Jadis captured the elegance and warmth of early 20th-century perfumery, combining opulent natural materials with emerging synthetic innovations. Its eventual disappearance likely occurred in the mid-1930s or later, as perfume houses began updating their collections and adapting to changing tastes and economic conditions. Today, it is remembered as a prime example of the richly layered amber compositions that defined the golden age of fragrance.
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