The early 1920s, known as Les Années Folles in France and the Jazz Age in America, were a period of exuberant modernity following the devastation of the First World War. Society longed for beauty, pleasure, and escape. Women’s fashions reflected this liberation: hemlines rose, corsets disappeared, and fluid silhouettes allowed movement and expression. The bob haircut, bold lipstick, and lavish evening wear expressed a new, confident femininity. Perfume, too, became a declaration of self-expression—an invisible accessory as vital as a beaded gown or a string of pearls.
It is within this spirit of modern opulence and Orientalist fantasy that Maskée found its voice. Advertisements described it as “a full joy, like a crystal goblet to which not a single flower petal could be added without causing it to overflow... an ineffable impression born from Parfum Maskée, through which seem to pass all the mirages of the Orient.” Such poetic language reflects the fascination of the time with the East—imagined as exotic, sensual, and dreamlike. The perfume’s composition, a floral oriental (amber floral), embodied these associations perfectly. The blend of opulent florals like rose, jasmine, and heliotrope, layered with musky, honeyed undertones, evoked warmth and mystery—a scent as intoxicating and enigmatic as the masked woman herself.
The perfume was created by Henriette Gabilla of Les Parfums de Gabilla in Paris, a respected perfumer known for her sophisticated blends. When Ciro was founded in 1921 in New York, the company sourced its fragrances from Gabilla, already bottled and ready for the American market. Alongside Maskée, the early releases included Doux Jasmin and Chevalier de la Nuit—all launched in 1923.
In comparison to other perfumes of the era, Maskée aligned with prevailing trends rather than defying them. The early 1920s saw a surge in Oriental-style perfumes, beginning with Shalimar (1925) and Habanita (1921). These fragrances captured the zeitgeist—an appetite for richness, sensuality, and escape. Yet Maskée stood out for its poetic concept: “the perfume of the carnival, a gay, reckless odeur.” It was not only exotic but playful—a scent that invited women to explore their masked selves, to embrace joy and abandon with sophistication.
To the women of 1923, Maskée would have symbolized freedom, fantasy, and the thrill of transformation. In scent, it translated as something lush and luminous yet shadowed—floral brightness veiled in warmth, like a smile glimpsed through silk. It was the fragrance of a new era of women—modern, daring, and delightfully mysterious.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Maskée is classified as a floral oriental (amber floral) fragrance for women. The newspaper ads described it as "perfume of the carnival, a gay, reckless odeur".
- Top notes: aldehyde C-10, aldehyde C-12, bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, lemon oil, orange blossom, methyl anthranilate
- Middle notes: linalool, linalyl acetate, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orris, ionone, heliotrope, eugenol, isoeugenol,
- Base notes: honey, musk, musk ketone, musk ambrette, civet, castoreum, cedar, tonka bean, coumarin, vanilla, Siam benzoin, labdanum, opoponax, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, patchouli
Scent Profile:
The first impression of Maskée is one of effervescent radiance—like silk slipping over bare skin, luminous and teasing. The top notes shimmer with aldehydes C-10 and C-12, those silvery molecules that lend perfumes their celestial brightness. They sparkle like champagne bubbles, infusing the air with a clean, fizzy sheen that magnifies every natural scent to follow. Beneath this shimmering light lies Italian bergamot, sun-ripened on Calabrian hillsides, offering a complex interplay of green citrus peel, faint floral sweetness, and the elegant bitterness of its zest.
Lemon oil adds a sharper sparkle—its aldehydes and limonene molecules cutting through the sweetness like sunlight on crystal. Then comes neroli, distilled from Tunisian orange blossoms, honeyed yet green, its linalool content radiating a luminous floral freshness that seems to glow from within. Petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the same bitter orange tree, introduces a gentle herbaceous edge, the bridge between leaf and blossom. And weaving through it all is methyl anthranilate, that distinctive natural compound responsible for the grape-like, sweet and velvety undertone of orange blossom. Its fruity softness foreshadows the sensuous depth that awaits below.
As the aldehydic brightness begins to soften, Maskée unfurls its romantic heart—a bouquet that feels both Parisian and dreamlike. Bulgarian rose takes center stage, its petals lush and velvety, rich in phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol, which lend the flower its dewy, romantic warmth. It intertwines with jasmine, whose indole-laden breath brings the pulse of skin and night air—animalic, creamy, and hypnotic. Ylang-ylang, most prized from the islands of the Philippines and the Comoros, contributes its narcotic sweetness, built on benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether, materials that give it that narcissus-banana nuance that feels almost tangible.
Orris, derived from aged rhizomes of Florentine iris, diffuses a velvety powder—violet, suede, and cosmetic all at once—owing to its rich irone content, which binds beautifully with ionones to amplify that nostalgic violet-powder accord beloved in early twentieth-century perfumery. Heliotrope soon drifts in like soft dusted sugar, its heliotropin molecule imparting the scent of almond meringue and baby powder. Beneath the sweetness flickers the warmth of eugenol and isoeugenol, clove-like spices found in carnation and ylang-ylang, adding body and a faint piquant thrill that recalls face powder laced with danger. Supporting them are linalool and linalyl acetate, naturally present in the citrus and floral notes above—materials that smooth the transitions between each element, rounding every petal and whisper into a harmonious whole.
Gradually, the heart descends into a voluptuous, enveloping base—rich, resinous, and animalic, like velvet brushed against bare shoulders. Honey glows golden, complex and multifaceted: beeswax facets lend waxy warmth while phenylacetic notes echo the floral top. It melts into a tapestry of musk, blending natural sensuality with early twentieth-century innovation. Natural musk, in tinctured form, provided a deep, warm, almost salty sweetness, while musk ketone and musk ambrette, two synthetics of the era, extended its diffusion and lent a powdery softness that made the scent linger for hours. Threads of civet and castoreum introduce a whisper of shadow—a reminder of human warmth, skin, and intimacy.
Supporting these animalic notes, the base of Maskée is richly ambered. Tonka bean, laden with coumarin, contributes a hay-almond sweetness that ties seamlessly into vanilla and the balsamic warmth of Siam benzoin, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, and opoponax (sweet myrrh). These resins, drawn from trees native to Southeast Asia and South America, shimmer with notes of caramel, cinnamon, and faint smoke; their vanillin and cinnamic acid derivatives give the perfume its languid, enveloping body. Labdanum, resin of the Cistus shrub from the Mediterranean, anchors everything with a leathery, sun-baked warmth—the very soul of the oriental style. Finally, patchouli and cedar bring balance: the former earthy, cool, and faintly camphorous, grounding the sweetness with its sesquiterpene richness; the latter dry and linear, like the polished wood of an antique dressing table.
Together, these layers form a perfume that feels alive—at once radiant and veiled. Maskée opens like laughter in candlelight and settles into a silken whisper on skin, a scent that hides as much as it reveals. The interplay of aldehydic brilliance, creamy florals, and honeyed amber is theatrical yet intimate, embodying the 1920s fascination with mystery, sensuality, and transformation. It is, quite literally, a perfume behind a mask: dazzling, playful, and just a little dangerous.
Bottles:
The Parfum Maskée (Maskee) was presented in a truly whimsical and theatrical bottle that perfectly captured the playful, carnival-inspired character of the fragrance. The clear glass body was shaped like a clown, its form both sculptural and charmingly detailed. Around the neck, a ruff collar was represented with delicate paper labels, while three paper “buttons” ran down the front of the clown’s suit, lending a visual narrative to the perfume even before it was opened. Topping the bottle was a milk glass stopper, ball-shaped and crowned with a pointed hat, elegantly enameled in black—a small yet striking detail that mirrored the mask-like intrigue of the scent itself.
The bottle was available in two sizes: the smaller 5-inch version and the more imposing 8-inch size, both commanding attention on a dressing table. For added luxury and protection, the bottles were presented in a black satin box decorated with a stenciled clown in white, reinforcing the perfume’s playful, carnival-themed identity and making the package a visual delight as well as a functional container.
In terms of pricing, advertisements from 1924 show that the 2-ounce bottle retailed for $5, while the 1-ounce version sold for $2.50. Though these numbers seem modest by today’s standards, adjusting for inflation to 2025 values places them at approximately $93.87 and $46.94, respectively. This positions Maskée as an accessible luxury of its time—high enough in quality to signify refinement and sophistication, yet playful and affordable enough to reach a wide audience of women eager to embrace the new, joyous spirit of the 1920s.
The combination of clever design, whimsical imagery, and accessible luxury made Maskée’s presentation as memorable as its scent: a perfume that invited its wearer to step into a world of elegance, delight, and theatrical charm.
Hearst's, 1928;
"All the Ciro Perfumes — including Doux Jasmin, Bouquet Antique, and Parfum Maskee — are made, packaged, and sealed in France."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Parfum Maskée eventually vanished from the marketplace, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. Historical records indicate that it was still available at least through 1942, suggesting a commercial life spanning nearly two decades since its launch in 1923. Its persistence through the challenging years of the late 1930s and early 1940s—including the Great Depression and the early years of World War II—speaks to the perfume’s enduring appeal and the loyalty of its clientele.
By the time it disappeared, Maskée had established itself as a quintessential 1920s floral oriental, remembered not only for its luxurious, honeyed-amber composition but also for its playful, theatrical presentation in the clown-shaped bottle. Though the fragrance eventually ceased production, its legacy lives on in historical accounts, advertisements, and collectors’ memories, marking it as a signature creation of Parfums Ciro and an emblem of early twentieth-century elegance and whimsy in perfumery.
2018 Reformulation & Reissue:
In 2018, Parfums Ciro experienced a renaissance, reviving its historic fragrance line and introducing contemporary reinterpretations of its classic perfumes. Among these is the recreation of Maskee, expertly reimagined by Alexander Streeck. The revived scent remains faithful to the spirit of the original while imbuing it with a modern elegance and richness. According to the company’s description, Maskee embodies “the play of the masks,” evoking the glittering celebration and exuberance of a masked ball, where costumes are colorful and eccentric, faces are hidden yet alluring, and curiosity dances in the air. This theatrical concept mirrors the perfume’s olfactory character: layered, playful, and deeply seductive.
The fragrance opens with the exotic nectar sweetness of ylang-ylang blossoms, radiating a tropical floral richness with both creamy and slightly spicy facets. This flows seamlessly into the heart, where precious damask roses—intensely scarlet and velvety—intertwine with powdery irises and beguiling jasmine, creating a luminous, multi-dimensional bouquet. Heliotrope contributes its marzipan-like warmth, adding a tender, almost edible sweetness that complements the creaminess of the florals. These elements are beautifully anchored by bourbon vanilla and tonka bean, which infuse moments of soft, gourmand warmth, reminiscent of delicate pastries and honeyed indulgence.
The base is built upon soft musk and clean cedar, lending subtle sensuality and a whisper of structural elegance. Honey threads through the composition, lightly gilding the florals and balsams, enhancing their opulence while maintaining the fragrance’s airy, playful charm. Overall, the 2018 version of Maskee captures the essence of versatility and seduction, echoing the masked intrigue of its namesake: a perfume that is simultaneously coquettish, opulent, and mysteriously inviting, allowing the wearer to experience a modern interpretation of a timeless 1920s classic.
From the website: "The play of the masks ... a glittering celebration, joie de vivre and exuberance characterize the atmosphere, which is characterized by the colourfulness and eccentricity of the costumes. The roving gaze captures faces, faces alien and familiar alike, thanks to the magic of their disguise. He indulges in the splendor of the hidden, the pleasure finds in the dance around the question of identities, leaving unfulfilled curiosity behind ... MASKÉE is a seductress whose sensuality derives from her versatility: Exotic nectar sweetness of ylang blossoms meets precious, scarlet-velvety damask roses, powdery-majestic irises on beguiling jasmine of appealing creaminess. Heliotrope conjures echoes of marzipan, while delicious bourbon vanilla in combination with tonka bean provides vanilla-sweet moments. The base is made of soft musk and clean cedar, gently carrying the fragrance, which sees itself coquettishly ensnared by honey."
Fragrance Profile:
- Top notes: ylang-ylang, Bulgarian Damascus rose, iris
- Middle notes: jasmine, heliotrope, tonka bean
- Base notes: honey, Bourbon vanilla, cedarwood, white musk
Scent Profile:
Experiencing the 2018 version of Maskee is like stepping into a luminous, theatrical ballroom where each note unveils itself with elegance and layered intrigue. The first impression is a radiant floral flourish, dominated by ylang-ylang, harvested from the Philippines, Madagascar, or the Comoros. This tropical flower exudes a rich, narcotic sweetness with slightly spicy undertones, thanks to its natural benzyl acetate, linalool, and p-cresyl methyl ether content. These molecules give the ylang-ylang a creamy, almost honeyed warmth that shimmers against the other top notes. Intertwined with this is Bulgarian Damascus rose, prized for its intensely deep, velvety scent, carrying rich phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol molecules that lend an opulent, dewy rose note distinguished from Turkish or Moroccan varieties by its sheer roundness and elegance. Iris, likely from Florentine rhizomes, contributes a delicate powdery elegance; its irones impart soft violet-like facets, a whisper of nostalgia, and a subtle, airy texture that lifts the initial richness of the florals.
As the perfume settles, the heart notes begin to bloom, revealing the creamy warmth of jasmine, with its indolic compounds bringing depth and sensuality. Jasmine’s scent is both bright and skin-like, evoking intimacy and allure. Heliotrope rises in tandem, its heliotropin molecule conjuring a marzipan-like sweetness that harmonizes beautifully with the soft almond nuances of tonka bean, whose coumarin content infuses the heart with powdery, slightly smoky warmth. This combination creates a tactile, gourmand floral richness, a floral bouquet that feels both sumptuous and comforting, while retaining a sense of restrained elegance rather than cloying sweetness.
Finally, the base notes anchor the fragrance with gentle, enveloping warmth. Honey adds a golden, viscous sweetness, simultaneously natural and radiant, enhancing the gourmand aspects of the tonka and heliotrope. Bourbon vanilla contributes its characteristic soft, creamy vanillin facets, rounded yet persistent, complementing the sweet warmth of the honey. Cedarwood, likely sourced from the Eastern Mediterranean or Virginia, offers a dry, resinous woodiness with subtle camphoraceous highlights, balancing the lush sweetness with structural elegance. The white musk, possibly a combination of natural and synthetic musks such as musk ketone, provides a clean, velvety veil, lingering on the skin and extending the perfume’s presence. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is at once opulent, playful, and sophisticated, capturing the spirit of masked revelry with a modern refinement: bright, floral, and gourmand on the surface, yet grounded in warm, soft sensuality.
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